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Cubic Zirconia (CZ) Jewelry Making Gemstone

Diamond Jewelry Making Gemstone and Birthstone for AprilThe cubic zirconia (CZ) gemstone is a man-made version of the naturally occurring mineral zirconium oxide.  The CZ was originally discovered in nature in 1892.  Unfortunately, the quantities and size of naturally occurring CZs are such that there is too little naturally occurring cubic zirconia to make it worthwhile to mine the crystals and the naturally occurring crystals are too small. 

The process for making cubic zirconia in the laboratory was perfected in Russia by a team of scientists working under V. V. Osiko.  Their technique was first published in 1973 and commercial production of cubic zirconia began in 1976.  By 1990, annual global production reached 50 million carats. 

Diamond Earrings Jewelry Making ProjectThe process for making CZs involves heating a powdered mix including zirconium and a stabilizer in a water cooled crucible.  The heat for the crucible is generated by a strong electrical field.  The water cooling of the outside of the crucible causes the powder to become heated from the outside in, with a thin layer of unmelted powder on the outside.  The material is heated to a very high temperature (about 2,750 degrees centigrade) and pieces of zirconium metal are added to seed growth of the cubic zirconium crystals.  Water cooling is required along with the cooled layer of powder because no known crucible material could withstand this very high temperature.  After the crystals are grown at this very high temperature, the crystals are slowly cooled to 1,400 degrees centigrade and held at that temperature to allow the crystals to anneal.  When this process is completed the resulting crystals are typically 2 inches long and 1 inch wide.  These large crystals are cut an polished to make gemstones for use in making Cubic Zirconia Man-made Jewelry Making Gemstonejewelry. 

Cubic zirconia is absolutely clear, but can be manufactured in a variety of colors by adding various metals to the powder zirconium in the manufacturing process. 

The CZ is so optically close to a diamond that only a highly trained observer can tell the difference.  One of the ways that many trained jewelers use to visually distinguish a diamond from a CZ is that a mined diamond almost always has some small trace of color frequently a very light yellow or gray when observed under a loupe.  By contract a white or clear CZ will have absolutely no color.  Another technique used by jewelers to distinguish a diamond from a CZ is that mined diamonds almost always have small imperfections or inclusions that can be seen using a jeweler's loupe.  A CZ does not have these imperfections.  A third visual technique for identifying a CZ is that a CZ has more dispersion of light and more prismatic "fire" than a diamond. 

Before a stone is set, a CZ can be distinguished from a diamond by the weight and by the thermal conductivity.  A CZ will be 1.7 times heavier than a diamond of the same size.  A CZ is also a thermal insulator like an oven mitt, while by contrast a diamond is a thermal conductor.  In fact a diamond conducts heat even better than copper. 

Hardness is a final way to differentiate between a diamond and a CZ.  A CZ has a hardness of 8.5-9 while a diamond has a hardness of 10 on the Mohs hardness scale.  A CZ will not scratch a diamond, while another diamond will.  This check of hardness is not recommended because it is destructive -- the stone being tested may be damaged. 

A CZ is an excellent choice to replace diamonds and colored gemstones in jewelry.  The hardness of the CZ makes it harder than dust and suitable for everyday wear.  Optically, a CZ is very hard to distinguish from a diamond.  CZs, being man-made are virtually free of occlusions and other imperfections.  Finally, cubic zirconia are very reasonably priced.  Where a flawless 1 carat diamond would cost about $4000 or more and a Moissanite simulated diamond the same size would cost about $600, a flawless 1 carat CZ could be purchased for less than $10.

Here is a question for people considering a diamond -- given that there are now processes for creating diamonds in the laboratory, might there come a time when the price of diamonds begins to decrease?  In 50 years, will people be wearing gemstones that were mined, or will they be wearing gemstones that are chemically identical to mined gemstones, but without the flaws inherent in naturally occurring stones?  Does a mined gemstone sound like a good long term investment? 

You can find more information on cubic zirconia in Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia here.

Please select the picture above-right, or select here to view our selection of cubic zirconia diamond simulants. 

  Birthstones                    View our Cubic Zirconia Jewelry Making Kits

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This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the Wikipedia article "Cubic Zirconia"
Last updated 3/30/2007

This WigJig web page is provided as part of WigJig University - College of Jewelry Making Techniques.  We try to provide interesting jewelry making techniques using beads, jewelry wire and other jewelry supplies.  We hope that the jewelry making skills taught on these web pages will provide you enough information for you to incorporate these techniques in your own jewelry making projects.  For beginners, we suggest that you start with a visit to our Beginners Jewelry Making pages. These pages discuss the skills necessary for making jewelry in the detail that beginners need. We also suggest that beginners to jewelry making might need to visit the WigJig University College of Jewelry Making Designs for jewelry making projects using the skills and techniques shown here. 

 Most, but not all of the jewelry supplies shown here can be purchased in our WigJig store.  We try to have a complete selection of jewelry supplies in our store including chain, wire, glass beads, findings, watches, tools, etc. 

The jewelry making projects shown here do not use Sterling Silver.  The reason for this is simple, it is harder to get good pictures of Sterling Silver wire components than with colored wire including gold-filled, copper, or brass wire.  Any project shown in colored wire can be made in Sterling Silver wire.