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Step
7: Obviously, the wire holds the setting for the gemstone in
place. The wire must be bent around the gemstone and outside the
finding must be bent to hold the finding in place. Using your bent
chain nose pliers, grasp the wire inside the bezel finding and bend the
wire as shown at left. Your goal is two fold. First, the long
wire needs to be bent to that it can be straightened and will be centered
on the middle of the setting. Second, the shorter wire needs to be
bent so that it will be perpendicular to the long wire so that it can be
wrapped
around the long wire.
Step 8: When you have both wires positioned correctly,
wrap the shorter wire around the longer wire one full wrap. At this
point the long wire should point directly
Step 9: Cut the excess wire and using your bent chain nose pliers, squeeze the cut end flat.
Step 11: Now you are ready to string your beads. For the watch shown at right, 10 inches of Soft Touch, size .010 or .014 doubled were used on each side of the watch. It is not necessary to double the Soft Touch, but being fanatical about strength in jewelry this is what we do. The 10 inch segment of Soft Touch was folded in half. At the mid-point, the end of the Soft Touch was threaded through one of the end loops in the watch face. Once enough Soft Flex was through the loop the opposite end of the two strands of Soft Touch was threaded through the loop created by the mid-point of the wire. Then the Soft Touch was pulled tight. A single crimp bead was used to hold that end of the Soft Touch. For details on how to fix a crimp bead using crimping pliers visit here. With the Soft Touch bead stringing wire in place, you now need to thread a combination of beads onto the Soft Touch. Your goal is that the distance from the center of the watch to the end of the clasp on that side of the watch should be 3 3/4" for a standard 7 1/2" watchband. For an 8" watchband use 4" per side. 6mm beads separated by size 11 S/L seed beads work well. In the above watch band a combination of ruby red beads and crystal A/B beads were used to match the watch face and gemstones. The clasp used above is a 6mm sterling silver magnetic clasp (Item
0339). When using a magnetic clasp it is almost mandatory that
you also incorporate a 3" guard chain. At the end of the beads were
strung two 2x2mm crimp beads, the guard chain, then the clasp and finally
both strands of Soft Touch were threaded back through the two crimp beads
and the first regular bead. The slack was carefully removed from the
Soft Touch and when everything was in position, the two crimp beads were
squeezed closed one at a time using the bead crimping pliers. |
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- Last modified: 11/13/2006