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Step 15: Continue this process one peg at a time until you add peg 14. After adding peg 14, wrap the wire around peg 14 and lift it over peg 9 before releasing your grip on the wire and allowing it to relax back to its at rest position. Your goal is that with no pressure applied the wire should rest adjacent to the inside of peg 9.
Step 15: Wrap the wire around the initial peg, peg 9, as
shown.
Step 16: Remove the wire from your jig and cut the excess wire with your flush cutter. Close the final loop with your bent chain nose pliers. At this point your wire component should appear as shown at right. If your initial and final loops don't overlap perfectly, do a little hand finishing to bend the wire so that they overlap. Step 17: Finish the small round wire component by using your nylon jaw pliers to flatten and harden the wire component. Be sure to squeeze each loop flat with your nylon jaw pliers. After flattening your wire component you may need to do a little more hand finishing so that the initial and final loops overlap.
Step 18: Now we are ready to make the connector component.
Straighten, then cut a 1 1/2" segment of 18 gauge wire. Make a loop
in one end of the wire using your fine step jaw pliers or your round
nose pliers. The loop needs to be the size of the peg for your jig.
Grasp the loop and straighten your wire by repeatedly pulling
Step 19: Add pegs 15 and 16 to your jig. These two pegs should be spaced about 3/4" apart. Place your initial loop on peg 15 and wrap the wire around peg 16 as shown.
Step 21: Now we need to convert both the "P" loops in the
connector wire component to eye loops using your round nose pliers.
This is done as shown here. |
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- Last modified: 04/10/2007